There are two choices about three miles before the lake: One is to stay on the reasonably distinct track that would take us towards the massive uranium mine north and then east to “pop” out onto the main road from Murmansk to St Petersburg and the other is to continue east onto a very indistinct track that gets progressively more challenging as it works its way alongside the lakes that run along the valley from Monchegorsk, we of course always take the more challenging “straight ahead” route.

It takes about three hours from this junction to travel to the lake. On the way we have to cross two small challenging rivers and circumnavigate an impassable bog to the side of the lake itself. In the past there was a wooden road that followed this route but that has long since succumbed to the ravages of the harsh winters and of course time.

The lake crossing is always fun, as we slowly work our way along its edge, being very careful not to stray out to far as the shallow water is only there for a little way out. When we arrive at the opposite bank traditionally we make camp so that we can enjoy the views and congratulate ourselves on a job well done. I remember some years ago that while we were camping a boat with two Russian fishermen arrived and they came ashore, greeted us warmly. We spoke no Russian and they spoke no English but with smiles and sign language with much head nodding we enjoyed a conversation of sorts for an hour before they went on there way once more. While they were with us we spent some time comparing the Kelly kettle that we use to heat water with the Russians equivalent, both worked equally well. As they left they insisted that we had some of their firelighters which were extremely good at being lit in this damp environment and I am sure that they were telling us that the Russian ones would be better than ours, a view reinforced because they very politely refused the offer of some of our firelighters in exchange!!